From Delhi to Agra: Elephants, Love Stories, and Two Highway Pit Stops

The Yamuna Expressway is less a highway and more an unscripted Bollywood drama—tractors, cows, and helmet-free bikers vying for space while sacred cows judge the chaos from the sidelines. Our journey to Agra included not one, but two memorable pit stops: a pricey latte at Highway Masala (worth it for the clean restroom alone) and a Butter Paneer Burger at McDonald’s that redefined fast food. But the real highlight was the Elephant Conservation and Care Centre, where majestic giants, once abused, now thrive in peace. Add a glittering Taj Mahal love story performance to the mix, and you’ve got a day as unforgettable as it was chaotic.

Our day began in Delhi with a warm and hearty breakfast at Prakash Kutir, where Ajay and Savita’s hospitality could convince anyone to stay forever. But the road to Agra beckoned, promising elephants, a taste of history, and adventures along the way.

The Yamuna Expressway: A Highway of Contrasts

Part of the Yamuna Expressway

The Yamuna Expressway is less a highway and more an unscripted drama. Tractors share lanes with speeding cars, helmets and seatbelts are treated as optional, and sacred cows amble about as if they own the place (they probably do). The roadside scenery is an ever-changing slideshow of paddock cricket matches, brick kilns, and rubbish that stretches endlessly. There was even a dead dog and more than one abandoned bicycle—because why not add a little mystery to the mix?How did that dog die? I find myself wondering. It did not look like he’d been run over, possibly malnourishment or exhaustion I suspect.

Our first stop was Highway Masala, a roadside haven where I indulged in a latte that cost 335 rupees ($6.33 after tax and tip). Pricey, yes, but after a morning of visual chaos, it was worth every penny. Karen, our ever-resourceful guide, tipped the restroom attendant generously, ensuring we all got to freshen up in clean, civilized conditions—a rare and much-appreciated treat on this journey.

Back on the road, the conversations in the bus merged into a pleasant hum as we passed Mathura’s signature brick-making kilns and teenagers playing cricket on any patch of dirt they could find. My travel thoughts turned contemplative, but hunger soon pulled me back into the moment.

Lunch at McDonald’s: A Quick Bite Before the Elephants

With the Elephant Conservation and Care Centre (ECCC) as the day’s highlight, Karen, ever mindful of the clock, opted for a no-nonsense lunch at McDonald’s. This was not McDonalds as we knew it in Australia; this was India, and I embraced it wholeheartedly by ordering a Butter Paneer Burger (despite the fact I avoid McDonald’s and any fast food ordinarily). Equal parts spicy, buttery, and satisfying, it felt like a tiny triumph of Indian flavor over fast food uniformity.

The quick meal allowed us to stay on schedule while fueling up for what we all knew would be the most impactful part of the day—the visit to the elephants.

Elephant Conservation and Care Centre (ECCC): A Sanctuary of Second Chances

An impactful presentation…why this work is so important.

Mathura brought us to the ECCC, a sanctuary dedicated to rescuing and rehabilitating abused and exploited elephants. Here, these majestic animals are given a second chance at life, free from the chains—both literal and figurative—that once bound them. Each elephant has a story, and hearing them is equal parts heartbreaking and hopeful. The presenter was exceptional. What is most impressive is the centre’s focus on rehabilitating the elephants owners and family as well in order to break the cycle altogether.

The chains that once bound…

Mia, who spent decades performing in circuses and was often starved and beaten had arrived at the centre in a state of abject physical and mental distress. Now she spends her days basking in the sun, playing in the mud, and eating nourishing food alongside her BFF Rhea. Learning about the abuse these elephants endured and seeing their transformation into happier, healthier creatures was a humbling experience that left us all a little more compassionate—and a lot more aware.

https://wildlifesos.org/

Mia aged 52 – note her poor feet needing continued treatment as a result of abuse suffered before being rescued.

Agra: Love, Lights, and a Bit of Contemplation

As we arrived in Agra, the chaotic energy of the day gave way to the serene charm of Da Bungalow, a retreat that combines modern comfort with traditional Indian aesthetics.

The evening took us to the Agra Mohabbat The Taj Show, a glittering spectacle that brought the love story of Emperor Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal to life. With its vibrant costumes, entrancing music, and heartfelt performances, it was the perfect way to end a day that had already felt larger than life.

Reflections on the Journey

As we made our way back to Da Bungalow, the chatter of the group softened, and my thoughts drifted to the changes awaiting me back home. My house is on the market, with a buyer viewing it tomorrow morning. Will my next chapter take me to another town? Or, will I stay in the town I’ve come to love. These questions hung in the air, unanswered but oddly comforting in their ambiguity.

For now, I am content to let the answers come in their own time. Tomorrow, the Taj Mahal awaits. If it’s even half as spectacular as the Butter Paneer Burger, I’ll call it a win. For today, I’m just grateful for elephants, clean restrooms, and the magic of being present on this wild, wonderful journey.

Namaskar from India: Navigating Chaos, Culture, and Curiosity

India is a place that defies neat descriptions. It’s vibrant, chaotic, soulful, and layered with more stories than one blog post could ever capture. From the cacophony of horns to the historical grandeur of the Mughal dynasty, every moment here is alive with contrasts.

Take the roads, for example. Driving in India is its own kind of performance art. And here’s a fun fact: it’s considered rude not to honk your horn before passing a vehicle. Honking is less about aggression and more about communication—a polite “Namaskar” to let others know you’re coming through. Trucks often display signs like “Blow Horn” or “Use Dipper at Night,” making it clear that honking isn’t just tolerated—it’s expected. It’s noisy, yes, but it’s also strangely efficient in its own chaotic way.

Reading the Roads: A Crash Course in Indian License Plates

One of the first things I noticed during my time here was the kaleidoscope of vehicle registration plates. Each tells a little story about where the vehicle comes from and its purpose:

• Yellow Plates: Commercial vehicles—taxis, trucks, and buses hustling to their next destination.

• White Plates: Private vehicles, carrying families, professionals, and everyday life.

• Green Plates: Electric vehicles—a hopeful sign of sustainability amidst the bustling chaos.

• DL: Vehicles registered in Delhi.

• RJ: Rajasthan, for those that call the majestic desert state home.

Every plate is like a postcard from a different corner of India, a reminder of how vast and diverse this country is.

The Streets Are Alive

India’s streets are more than just thoroughfares—they’re stages where life unfolds in all its raw beauty. Children play in the middle of the road, darting between cars and laughing with uncontainable joy. Others wash windows at traffic lights or paint gutters with a focus that’s both industrious and surreal. It’s a scene that tugs at your heartstrings, reminding you of the resilience and creativity that thrive even in the midst of challenges.

Tastes of Tradition: Semolina and Chickpea Flour

The food here is an adventure in itself, and my taste buds are having the time of their lives. Indian cuisine has a way of turning the simplest ingredients into something extraordinary. Take semolina and chickpea flour, for example. These humble staples are transformed into delicacies like soft, spongy dhokla or crispy, golden pakoras. It’s a reminder that in India, food isn’t just nourishment—it’s art, tradition, and a celebration of flavor.

A Glimpse into History: The Qutb Monuments and the Mughal Dynasty

India’s history is as rich and layered as its food. Exploring the Qutb Minar Complex in Delhi, I found myself awestruck by the scale and intricacy of these ancient structures. The Qutb Minar, a towering sandstone minaret built in 1193, rises like a sentinel over centuries of history. The surrounding ruins, including the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, tell stories of conquest, faith, and architectural brilliance.

This is the legacy of the Mughal dynasty, whose influence can still be felt in everything from India’s cuisine to its art and architecture. Walking through these monuments, it’s impossible not to feel a sense of reverence for the grandeur and ingenuity of those who came before us.

Finding Balance in the Chaos

India has a way of throwing you off balance—and then teaching you how to find your footing again. It’s in the blaring horns that somehow create order from chaos, the children who turn busy streets into playgrounds, the food that speaks of centuries-old traditions, and the monuments that whisper stories of a time long gone.

Travel here isn’t always comfortable, but it’s always meaningful. It demands that you stay present, that you open yourself to the unfamiliar, and that you find beauty in the mess. India doesn’t just show you the world—it shows you yourself, reflected in its vibrant, unfiltered mirror.

So, if you find yourself here one day, listen for the horns, taste the pakoras, marvel at the history, and let the chaos guide you to something extraordinary. Namaskar, my friends—welcome to the journey.

Finding Peace This Christmas: A Journey of Growth

Christmas Eve Morning: A Sacred Stillness

It’s Christmas Eve morning. Like most mornings, I wake to the soft dawn light. It streams through the open shutters of my bedroom overlooking the Blue Mountains. Today’s light feels particularly radiant, bathing the room in a golden glow and promising the start of a beautiful day. The sun rises with its unhurried elegance, and I find myself drawn to my yoga mat, grounding myself in meditation. I savor the stillness of this sacred moment, letting the peace wash over me.

Unusually, my peace is interrupted by a phone call. It’s my partner, 60 kilometers away, gently reminding me that he’s patiently waiting for my arrival later today. Christmas treats are packed, and together we’ll prepare our lunch for tomorrow. His kind voice carries a reassurance that surprises me. I feel truly at peace. This happens even in this quieter, more solitary lead-up to Christmas.

Christmas has always been a complex time since my divorce. With my boys no longer at home, it has often felt tinged with loneliness. In past years, I buried those feelings in busyness. I cooked meals for my parents and took them to their home. I visited my sister, brother, and aunt, all in separate places. The constant flurry of activity left little time to sit with my emotions.

This year has been different. I’ve intentionally allowed myself to feel the emotions for the first time. I’ve processed the emotions that surfaced in the weeks leading up to today. Instead of pushing them aside, I’ve worked through them, piece by piece. And now, as Christmas approaches, I’ve reached a quiet acceptance: everything is exactly as it is meant to be. There’s peace in letting go of the past and embracing the moment, just as it is.


2024: A Year of Challenge and Growth

2024 was a challenging year—there’s no doubt about that. But as the months rolled on, I discovered something remarkable: I’ve gotten better at navigating life’s inevitable ups and downs. Yes, some moments tested me. There were tears, big emotions, and times when life threw its curveballs. But I’ve learned not to let those moments keep me down for long.

I’ve started embracing emotion for what it truly is—e(motion)—energy in motion. It’s meant to move through us, not get stuck. Brene Brown’s analogy that emotions are like trains traveling through a tunnel resonates deeply with me. Solitude is the gift that lets me sit with my emotions. I can feel them fully. Then, I let them pass through that tunnel. And here’s the beautiful part: as I practice this, I notice the process gets quicker. How powerful is that? I realise I can shift my emotional state. I do this not by suppressing it but by feeling it. I release it and embrace the growth it brings. Honestly, it feels like I’m developing a superpower.

So, what’s changed? A big part is the sacred, joyful collection of rituals and practices I’ve created for myself. They’re small things—simple and ordinary—but they bring me immense joy. It is a morning meditation. It’s a walk in the mountains. It is lighting a candle at the end of the day, or at the beginning of a yoga practice. These practices honour my own needs. They keep me grounded. They’re the foundation. They allow me to show up for others in a true way. I do this without losing myself in the process. Most of the time, anyway. Let’s call it progress, not perfection. 😉


Closing One Chapter to Open Another

Five years after my divorce, I finally feel ready to let go of something I’ve held onto tightly: my home. Yesterday, I signed the contract with the agent. I spent so much time toying with the idea of selling. I often wondered what life might look like beyond these walls. Suddenly, it felt right. The decision didn’t come overnight—it’s been a slow, deliberate process. I’ve entertained the idea. I have contemplated it in my mind and heart. I tried it on for size in countless ways. But now, I feel ready to close this chapter and start anew.

As Rumi so beautifully says:

“This is love: to fly toward a secret sky, to cause a hundred veils to fall each moment. First to let go of life. Finally, to take a step without feet.”

That’s exactly where I find myself. I have no clear picture of what 2025 will bring. I know that I’ll no longer be tied to the identity this home has attached to me. It defined me as mother, wife, suburbanite, and host. It’s time to redefine myself without the labels this space has so lovingly carried for me. It’s a leap into the unknown, but for the first time, it feels exhilarating rather than daunting.


Looking Ahead to 2025

Anticipation and Gratitude: Embracing What’s Next

I am flying to India in January, and with each passing day, the anticipation builds. People tell me such a journey can be life-changing. But here’s the thing: when you live fully in the moment, every moment is life-changing. There are no expectations, no regrets—just the now. How freeing is that?

Perhaps when I return, a new home will have found its way to me. Perhaps it will take longer. Who knows? All I know is this: I’m embracing the unknown for what feels like the first time in my 55 years. As I write this, if I’m honest, I remember this feeling from childhood. I’m embracing it with a sense of wonder. It’s that same exhilaration I felt as a little girl when I discovered the tree outside my bedroom window and begged my mum for a spoonful of Vegemite to fuel my climb. That pure, unfiltered anticipation is what I’m feeling now as I look ahead to 2025.

The thought excites me. It’s a blank canvas. It’s an opportunity to create a space that reflects who I am now. It does not reflect who I’ve been. The Blue Mountains will stay my sanctuary. My future identity will be lighter and freer. It will be untethered from the stories of the past.


Gratitude for the Chapter That’s Closing

This Christmas, I am preparing to leave the home that has held so much of my story. I’m overwhelmed with gratitude. I’m grateful for the years I’ve spent here. I appreciate the growth it has nurtured. I admire, in myself, the courage it has taken to finally step into what’s next. This home has been a place of love, resilience, and transformation, and now it’s time to carry those lessons forward.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s this: the joy we cultivate within ourselves radiates outward. It helps us show up, serve, and live fully—without losing sight of who we truly are. That joy is my anchor as I move into this next chapter.


Carrying Peace Into the Holidays

As the day unfolds, I’ll pack up the Christmas goodies and head to my partner’s place. But I won’t just be carrying treats—I’ll be bringing the joy and peace that have taken root in my heart. This Christmas feels different, lighter. It’s a season of transition, a celebration of what’s been and what’s to come. Wherever this journey takes me, I’m ready to greet it with open arms and a heart full of gratitude. Wherever you are today, I hope you’re finding your own moments of stillness. I wish that you experience joy and maybe even a little courage to take a step without feet. Wishing you a Christmas filled with light and love. 🎄✨