Our day began in Delhi with a warm and hearty breakfast at Prakash Kutir, where Ajay and Savita’s hospitality could convince anyone to stay forever. But the road to Agra beckoned, promising elephants, a taste of history, and adventures along the way.
The Yamuna Expressway: A Highway of Contrasts
The Yamuna Expressway is less a highway and more an unscripted drama. Tractors share lanes with speeding cars, helmets and seatbelts are treated as optional, and sacred cows amble about as if they own the place (they probably do). The roadside scenery is an ever-changing slideshow of paddock cricket matches, brick kilns, and rubbish that stretches endlessly. There was even a dead dog and more than one abandoned bicycle—because why not add a little mystery to the mix?How did that dog die? I find myself wondering. It did not look like he’d been run over, possibly malnourishment or exhaustion I suspect.
Our first stop was Highway Masala, a roadside haven where I indulged in a latte that cost 335 rupees ($6.33 after tax and tip). Pricey, yes, but after a morning of visual chaos, it was worth every penny. Karen, our ever-resourceful guide, tipped the restroom attendant generously, ensuring we all got to freshen up in clean, civilized conditions—a rare and much-appreciated treat on this journey.
Back on the road, the conversations in the bus merged into a pleasant hum as we passed Mathura’s signature brick-making kilns and teenagers playing cricket on any patch of dirt they could find. My travel thoughts turned contemplative, but hunger soon pulled me back into the moment.
Lunch at McDonald’s: A Quick Bite Before the Elephants
With the Elephant Conservation and Care Centre (ECCC) as the day’s highlight, Karen, ever mindful of the clock, opted for a no-nonsense lunch at McDonald’s. This was not McDonalds as we knew it in Australia; this was India, and I embraced it wholeheartedly by ordering a Butter Paneer Burger (despite the fact I avoid McDonald’s and any fast food ordinarily). Equal parts spicy, buttery, and satisfying, it felt like a tiny triumph of Indian flavor over fast food uniformity.
The quick meal allowed us to stay on schedule while fueling up for what we all knew would be the most impactful part of the day—the visit to the elephants.
Elephant Conservation and Care Centre (ECCC): A Sanctuary of Second Chances
Mathura brought us to the ECCC, a sanctuary dedicated to rescuing and rehabilitating abused and exploited elephants. Here, these majestic animals are given a second chance at life, free from the chains—both literal and figurative—that once bound them. Each elephant has a story, and hearing them is equal parts heartbreaking and hopeful. The presenter was exceptional. What is most impressive is the centre’s focus on rehabilitating the elephants owners and family as well in order to break the cycle altogether.
Mia, who spent decades performing in circuses and was often starved and beaten had arrived at the centre in a state of abject physical and mental distress. Now she spends her days basking in the sun, playing in the mud, and eating nourishing food alongside her BFF Rhea. Learning about the abuse these elephants endured and seeing their transformation into happier, healthier creatures was a humbling experience that left us all a little more compassionate—and a lot more aware.
Agra: Love, Lights, and a Bit of Contemplation
As we arrived in Agra, the chaotic energy of the day gave way to the serene charm of Da Bungalow, a retreat that combines modern comfort with traditional Indian aesthetics.
The evening took us to the Agra Mohabbat The Taj Show, a glittering spectacle that brought the love story of Emperor Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal to life. With its vibrant costumes, entrancing music, and heartfelt performances, it was the perfect way to end a day that had already felt larger than life.
Reflections on the Journey
As we made our way back to Da Bungalow, the chatter of the group softened, and my thoughts drifted to the changes awaiting me back home. My house is on the market, with a buyer viewing it tomorrow morning. Will my next chapter take me to another town? Or, will I stay in the town I’ve come to love. These questions hung in the air, unanswered but oddly comforting in their ambiguity.
For now, I am content to let the answers come in their own time. Tomorrow, the Taj Mahal awaits. If it’s even half as spectacular as the Butter Paneer Burger, I’ll call it a win. For today, I’m just grateful for elephants, clean restrooms, and the magic of being present on this wild, wonderful journey.
The Balanced Equation 